Ewa Riro: Nigerian Stewed Beans

Ingredients and method

Ingredients

• 2 US cups dry black-eyed peas, unpeeled
• 2 medium onions, divided: one diced and one roughly chopped
• 1 Scotch bonnet or habanero, stemmed; use less for milder beans
• 1/4 US cup food-grade unrefined red palm oil; not palm kernel oil
• 6 US cups water (1.4 liters) for the beans, plus more as needed
• 2–4 tablespoons water for blending the pepper sauce
• 1 teaspoon vegetable bouillon powder, optional; check its salt and allergen label
• 1/2 teaspoon fine salt to start, plus more to taste

Method

1. Spread the beans on a tray, remove stones and damaged beans, then rinse. Put them in a heavy 4-quart pot with the diced onion and 6 cups water. These beans keep their skins.
2. Bring to a boil, then lower to a steady simmer with the lid partly open. Cook until a bean crushes easily with a fork and has no chalky center, commonly 60–90 minutes but sometimes longer. Check periodically; if liquid falls below the beans before they soften, add hot water in small amounts. Stir gently near the bottom to check for sticking.
3. Meanwhile, coarsely blend the remaining onion and hot pepper with just enough of the measured blending water to move the blades. Use gloves or wash your hands thoroughly after handling hot peppers, and avoid touching your eyes.
4. Warm the red palm oil in a second heavy pot over medium-low heat until fluid. Keep its red color; do not bleach it or bring it to smoking. Carefully spoon in the wet onion-pepper mixture to limit splashing, then add the optional bouillon and starting salt.
5. Cook the sauce at a gentle bubbling pace for about 15–20 minutes, stirring often, until the onion has softened, the mixture is concentrated and a little oil is visible around it. If it catches, lower the heat and add a spoonful of water.
6. When the beans are thoroughly soft, stir them and their remaining cooking liquid into the sauce. If much liquid remains, simmer uncovered to thicken; do not rush this by draining away all the bean broth. Simmer gently for about 10 minutes, stirring along the bottom, until the sauce and beans form a thick, spoonable stew.
7. Taste and adjust salt. Crush a few beans against the pot if you want a creamier consistency, leaving plenty whole. Add a splash of hot water if too stiff. Serve with fried ripe plantain, bread or plain rice.